Some tips for running in both Box and No Box

After running dual 12V batteries the switch was made to a 16V one battery set up. Superior cranking power, voltage to keep MSD at peak output and the addition of a 16V alternator made for a reliable package for those days when 16 rounds are on your list for the day.   To keep the 16V battery at peak power I rely on this charger, a multi-level charger you can plug in and forget about it. Get the log book up to date and be confident you will have the "juice" to go to the winner's circle photo op.


On the electrical end of the car, I like overkill. Most electrical gremlins are from grounding issues, so don’t skimp here. Battery and ground cables are I/O welding cable. I usually use 2-12 volt batteries and an alternator. I had battery issues this past season with my yellow tops, they just weren’t charging up as quick or holding a charge as well as when they were new. I decided to make the switch to 16 volt. I did some research and checked with several local racers and went with XS Power batteries XP 1000 battery and the XS 1005 charger. The charger is a real trick piece. It can charge 12, 14, or 16 volts at 2, 15, or 25 amps. It will not over charge, which is the death of AGM batteries. At the track I set it on 25 amps and the charger reduces the amperage automatically. Set it and forget it!


On the advice of many others, I went with only one battery. I sent my 12 volt, 74 amp alternator back to East Coast Auto Electric to be upgraded to 16 volt, 120 amps. I did have a points race weekend to attend while my alternator was getting upgraded. It was the first time I raced with one battery and no alternator, so it would be a good test. I charged the battery fully at night and in between rounds as time allowed. It worked fine. So when I added the alternator, I knew it would provide an extra level of protection for the times when I need to hotlap.


Regular vehicle maintenance is a must. A logbook is a valuable tool, because runs will add up quickly. Pay special attention to things that wear out like tires and brake pads. I put the car up on jack stands and give the whole car a good look over.


I have an 8-quart oil pan and try to change oil at or before 80 runs. On the advice of my engine builder, I use Brad Penn semi-synthetic motor oil. I also add a bottle of Comp Cam’s #159 oil additive at every oil change. This has all the anti-wear additives that you won’t find in off the shelf oils; this is a must when you run solid flat tappet cam and lifters. The nice part about regular maintenance is it gives you confidence in your car. When you have confidence in your car, you can focus on what you need to do as a driver.